Newest KB Articles

The other "DeLorean" Hot Wheels Car - Turismo

Tue, 14 Apr 2026 13:38:41 GMT

During the 70's and 80's Bob Rosas was the Manager of Product Development (Boy Toys) at Mattel and Larry Wood was the principal car designer at Mattel, and in 1978 they took interest in the DeLorean car, which was getting significant media attention at the time. Joel Rubenstein, Product Legal at Mattel, received a verbal okay from DeLorean Motor Company to produce a Hot Wheels car based on the prototype DeLorean car. Working from photos of the prototype, the molds were quickly developed and samples created. For reasons that are still unclear, DMC decided against allowing Mattel to manufacture the die-cast version of the car. To recoup the costs associated with the design and tooling, Bob convinced Mattel to modify the existing tooling to alter the appearance of the car just enough that it wasn't exactly a DeLorean any more. This version was re-named "Turismo" and sold in 1979-1980 (below).

In 2015, Hot Wheels paid tribute to Turismo with two new versions of the current DeLorean cast that replicated the red and yellow #10 paint job. One is gloss red, the other is Spectraflame. Classic DMC currently has a limited number of the 2015 DeLorean Turismo in red, available for sale here.

Why is my cabin fan cutting out?

Thu, 26 Feb 2026 13:47:36 GMT

When you’re driving in the heat of summer, have you ever had your AC cabin fan suddenly stop working? Usually it’s speeds 3 and 4 that stop - 1 and 2 keep working just fine. After a few minutes at speeds 1 or 2, 3 and 4 will magically start working again and the cycle repeats itself. What’s going on?

Fan speeds 3 and 4 are controlled by a single 25A circuit breaker in the relay compartment behind the passenger seat. This circuit breaker can get tripped due to high resistance along the fan speed 3 and 4 circuit - simply replacing the circuit breaker alone will not fix the issue if the area of high resistance is still present. Areas of concern to check include:

Condition of the cabin fan - does it squeal or rattle when running? Has your AC box ever been clogged with debris and not draining properly, causing water to backflow into the cabin fan motor? This can cause rust to develop in the internal components of the cabin fan, which leads to high resistance. Also check the conditions of the wire terminals at the cabin fan and make sure they are secure and making a clean connection. Sold with and without a squirrel cage, a new cabin fan can be found under part # 101273A (with cage) and 101273B (without cage).

Condition of the cabin fan speed resistor - like the cabin fan, the portions of the resistor that sit inside the AC box can become corroded over time due to moisture and will cause higher than normal resistance. The coils of the resistor can also get covered with debris that has fallen into the AC box, such as dead leaves, and we’ve even seen rodent nests built inside this area of the AC box! If the resistor is in need of replacement, it can be found under part # 101275.

Condition of the fan speed resistor connector - what do the terminals for the car’s connector look like? Are they corroded or tarnished? Is the whole connector melted or warped in shape from any heat buildup due to excessive resistance? Does it have a strong connection to the terminals on the fan speed resistor when you plug it in? If not, a new wiring pigtail is available that can be spliced in - part # 101275A.

Condition of the wire terminals at the circuit breaker itself - the 25A circuit breaker for fan speeds 3 and 4 can be found mounted vertically in a clip on the bottom right corner of the relay compartment mounting tray, next to the 40A circuit breaker for the radiator fans. The 25A circuit breaker should have either three or four wires plugged into it depending on whether or not a starter wire mod has been performed (part # 114017 is what you need if it hasn’t - and this is something that every car needs!). What condition are the wire terminals in? Are they corroded or fitting loosely on the circuit breaker tabs? Is the wire leading up to each terminal flexible and with solid insulation that isn’t cracking or showing signs of overheating? A fine-grit sandpaper can be used to remove any corrosion or discoloration on the tabs, and the terminals can be gently crimped so they have tighter engagement with the tabs when installed. If you cannot achieve tighter engagement, you will need to replace the terminals.

Water leaks - common areas and how to stop them

Wed, 24 Sep 2025 17:02:12 GMT

Many early DeLoreans were built without adequate sealing against water ingress. Once the cars got into the hands of buyers and were used in a multitude of different weather conditions, the factory created a Service Bulletin, based on the assembly line improvements made during production.

Now, after 40+ years, we are seeing the deterioration of some of these earlier fixes simply due to age and find that these occasionally need to be re-done - even on the later cars that had these implemented on the assembly line.

The most common areas we see for water leaks in the DeLorean include:

Hood bump stops - owners replace/adjust them without removing the old sealant and replacing with new sealant
Cowl screen screws - owners replace/adjust them without removing the old sealant and replacing with new sealant
Door sills - debris blocking drains in bottom of doors or improper replacement of the sill seals - typically new rubber installed but failing to trim seals with openings aligned for drain holes
Improper windshield replacement - either incorrect installation or incorrect materials used
Roof leaks - wet headliners from improper headliner or roofbox replacement
Moisture or water drips in the passenger footwell are most commonly due to clogged AC drain or an early car without foam padding on the HVAC box under the dash allowing excessive condensation to form and drip.

Console Shimming & Support Blocks

Fri, 14 Feb 2025 15:18:04 GMT

The purpose of shimming the console is to gain clearance between the bottom of the window/defrost switches and the fiberglass underbody. The support blocks provide additional support and strength to the armrest portion so it won’t collapse when you lean on it. It is only necessary to shim the center two mounting studs to gain the needed clearance. These instructions provide two methods for shimming - one for when your console is still in the car and one for when the console needs to be removed. Removing the console allows for a better final result.

Tools Needed:

#1 & #2 Phillips-head screwdrivers
10mm socket with wiggler and ratcheting wrench
Weatherstrip Adhesive - Part # 981850

Parts You May Need:

Two support blocks will need to be fabricated from wood, such as a 2x4, and added between the console armrest and underbody. One block needs to be approximately 1.5" (about 38 mm) thick and the other needs to be ¾" (about 19mm) thick as seen in the photo below. These dimensions can vary a little from car to car and may have to be adjusted for a good fit.

Shimming & Support Blocks - Center Console NOT Removed From Car:

1. Remove the gear shift knob (5-speed manual) or disassemble the gear shift handle (automatic).

2. Remove the two screws at the rear of the gear shift plate, pull up on the shifter plate, disconnect the rheostat and clock, and set it to the side out of your way.

3. If the switch plate area is bent upwards, it will need to be straightened to properly re-mount the switches and the recommended console alignment plate (Part #111177). Do not bend the switch plate section up to gain access to the nuts on the two center console studs. Instead, use a wiggler socket to access the nuts (see photo below).

4. After loosening the two nuts, slide in the shims (Part # SP10639) two per side, between the console mount and the underbody. (see photo below). Retighten the nuts.

5. Remove the ashtray to gain access, add the thinner block of wood (¾” - about 19mm) between the inner console and the armrest, to support the armrest portion of the console. Then, slide the thicker block (1½” - about 38mm) between the underbody and the console. (see photo below). Slide the thinner block to the left and forward, toward the switches. Weatherstripping adhesive (Part #981850) can be used to help hold the blocks in place.

6. You can now reassemble the shift plate, gear shift, and ashtray.

Shimming & Support Blocks - Center Console Removed From Car:

Removing the Console:

1. Remove the gear shift knob (5-speed manual) or disassemble the gear shift handle (automatic).

2. Remove the two screws at the rear of the gear shift plate, pull up on the shifter plate, disconnect the rheostat and clock, and set it to the side out of your way.

3. Behind the kneepads flanking the center console, remove the screws securing the kneepad brackets to the console (see photo below)

4. Remove the two screws attaching the console coin tray and remove the coin tray. Carefully lift out the ashtray.

5. Remove the six nuts and washers attaching the center console to the underbody with the 10mm socket. Try not to bend the armrest forward section up. The wiggler socket will aid in removing the center two nuts (see photo below). If the switch plate area is bent upwards, it will need to be straightened to properly re-mount the switches and the recommended console switch alignment plate (Part # 111177). Do not bend the switch plate section up to gain access to the nuts on the two center console studs.

6. Begin lifting the console from the rear, tilting the console upwards from this end. (see photo below).

7. Free the wiring harness where it is nested inside the left & right console brackets. Also free the two vacuum lines from under the brackets (see photo below).

8. Continue lifting the console up until you can reach under it to unplug the window, defrost switches and cigar lighter. You can now remove the console from the vehicle.

Removing and Shimming the Armrest:

1. The armrest is held to the console by four studs with nuts and small washers. By removing the nuts and washers, you can lift up and remove the armrest from the console. The armrest should be relatively flat, including the switch mount section. If bent, it needs to be straightened/flattened. (see photos below).

2. When remounting the armrest, use one thin fender washer (Part # SP10770) on each stud as a shim between the armrest and console, and one under each nut. This will help support and lift the armrest up (see photo below). This would also be a good time to consider installing the console switch alignment plate (Part # 111177) (see diagram below).

Reinstalling the Console:

1. Lower the console into position in the car. The front should be lowered down over the radio mounting bracket first. Then, as the back comes down, push the connectors for the window and defroster switches up through their respective mounting holes. Remember to put the left power window connector through the second opening from the left, then the defroster switch and then the right power window connector. Now plug in the cigar lighter wires. Install window switches and the defrost switch.

IMPORTANT: Check that no wires or vacuum lines are pinched under console mounting points.

2. As you lower the console over the six mounting studs, carefully push the wiring harness into the console brackets on each side of the console. Push the two vacuum lines into the left bracket and make certain the vacuum lines and wires are not pinched under the brackets.

3. Insert two shims (Part # SP10639) between the console brackets and the underbody at the left and right center console studs. (see photo below).

4. Install the six nuts and shift plate support bracket.

Reinforcing the Armrest:

1. Add the thinner block of wood (¾" - about 19mm) between the inner console and the armrest, to support the armrest portion of the console.

2. Slide the thicker block (1.5" - about 38 mm) between the underbody and the console, via the ashtray opening. Push this block to the left and forward, towards the left corner. Slide the thinner block to the left and forward, towards the switches. Weatherstripping adhesive (Part # 981850) can be used to secure the blocks in place. (see photo below). Adhere the lower block to the underbody ONLY. This will facilitate future removal of the console.

3. You can now complete the reassembly of the shift plate, gear shift, coin tray and ashtray. Reinstall the screws holding the kneepad brackets to the console. You can now reconnect the battery.

Written by William Morgan Jr., DeLorean Motor Company (Texas)

Revised for KB - MW & HCC 06/03/25 [format, product links, minor edits]

Front/Rear Door Latch Modification

Mon, 10 Feb 2025 17:33:55 GMT

This is not a necessary procedure, but removing the blockers allows the locks to be operated with doors opened or closed and puts less stress on the rod adjustments, helping to eliminate binding.

Before beginning, please note the following:

Only 2 door latch designs are used on the DeLorean. The driver side front and passenger side rear are the same (Part # 101666). The passenger side front and driver side rear are the same (Part # 101665).
Only remove 1 latch at a time, it is recommended to start with the front latch.
Take pictures and make note of which lever and which locating hole each rod goes into as there are multiple locations on each latch.
There are 2 bellcranks in each door. The upper bellcrank is referred to as the latch bellcrank. The lower bellcrank is referred to as the lock bellcrank and has the electrical contacts for the electric door lock as well as the third lock rod to the outer keyed lock cylinder.
If the front latch rod is a nonadjustable version, it is recommended to replace it with an adjustable one during this procedure (Part # 110074) (Figure 1). A quantity of 2 may be needed, 1 for each door.
Before closing the door, make certain both latches are in the open position (Figure 2):

Removing the Latches From the Car:

Disconnect the door lock module multi-connector and brown power wire.
Remove upper and lower door panels and free up the membrane for access.
Disconnect latch rod from upper bellcrank, then disconnect lock rod from lower bellcrank.
From front of door remove 3 large Phillips-Head screws (save for reassembly) holding latch assembly to door. You now can maneuver the latch out of the door. This may require some trial and error.

Cutting out the Latch Blockers:

Once out of the door, move the latch to the work bench and clamp the lower corner in a vise (see photo below). Do not damage threads.
Looking down from top of the latch you can see the locking pawl (a thick strong wire rod) above the blocker. If you push back on the white plastic piece above the wire pawl you can move the pawl out of the way and begin cutting out the blocker. (See photo below)
Using a Dremel tool (see photos below), carefully begin cutting out the plastic blocker. You can also do this with a sharp razor blade such as an Exacto knife. Go slowly so you don’t damage any of the mechanisms.
Clean out all of the shavings. Brake clean and compressed air work well for this. Lightly lube with a thin spray lubricant such as WD-40. Do not use a heavy grease as this collects and holds dirt and dust.
Install both lock and latch rods into their original lever position on the latch and maneuver the latch back into position inside the door and secure with original screws. The front and rear lock rods can be installed with the latch mounted in the door but the latch rod must be in place on the latch before installing. Reconnect both rods to the proper bellcrank. The front lock rods have a guide clip (Part # SP10706) which must be installed.
You can now repeat this process on the rear latch.

Written by Bill Morgan Jr & Michael Willard, DeLorean Motor Company (Texas)

Importance of Anti-Seize with Stainless Steel Hardware

Mon, 10 Feb 2025 15:33:48 GMT

One of the most iconic features of the DeLorean DMC-12 is the stainless steel body - a material that ensures enduring beauty due to its corrosion resistance. Unfortunately, the same cannot be said for much of the hardware used to assemble the car, and, as a result, many owners desire to replace as much of the hardware as possible with stainless steel. In many cases, carbon steel is the only appropriate thing to meet fastener strength requirements. However, using stainless hardware can eliminate the issue of corrosion and lend to a more aesthetically pleasing appearance while still meeting the specified fastener strengths necessary for safe operation.

While stainless steel is a very desirable material for its anti-corrosive properties and aesthetics, it can present problems if not installed without the correct precautions being observed. Stainless fasteners are frequently prone to “galling” during installation if there is inadequate lubrication or excessive heat created by friction. This resulting micro-welding between the mating parts means the parts may seize, making safe removal impossible. This most commonly results in broken bolts and stripped threads. To avoid this, follow these steps for proper stainless hardware installation:

Always use a lubricant on stainless fasteners. Typically the best lubricant will be anti-seize paste like Permatex Anti-Seize (Part # 981343) as it lubricates the threads on installation and is long-lasting for future removal. In some cases, a thread locker is necessary and fortunately, it is also suitable for preventing thread galling.
Thread stainless fasteners at a slower speed. As helpful as they are, air or battery-powered impact tools can quickly generate heat and friction at the threads. Generally speaking, it is best to avoid using these tools on stainless hardware. When this isn’t practical, using the tool at a slower speed is a good option.
Do not force a stainless fastener that is not threading smoothly. This is good practice regardless of the material, but the consequences are generally more dire when stainless steel fasteners are used. You may feel the fastener begin to seize, and it may fail very quickly after that point.
Always adhere to recommended torque specifications. A stainless bolt is more likely to fail when overtightened due to its generally lower yield strength. Keep in mind that the required torque is reduced when threads are lubricated. If we provide torque specifications, this will be taken into account.

See all of our stainless steel parts here.

If you have any more questions or need any assistance, contact our tech support team at techhelp@classicdmc.com.

Written by Sarah Heasty & Michael Willard, DeLorean Motor Company (Texas)

Revised HCC 04/09/25 [format, product links, minor edits]

Improved LH & RH Escutcheons * NEW *

Fri, 06 Dec 2024 21:22:32 GMT

The purpose of this article is to highlight some of the common issues seen that can negatively affect the fit of the escutcheon. We have made numerous improvements to the design of the new escutcheon which in combination with the information in this article should help you achieve satisfying results.

Design Improvements to improve retention in our new escutcheons:

Aggressive retaining tabs in the middle and rear location lock the escutcheon in place.
Front retaining tabs modified to correct the often-seen slight misalignment of the armrest subassembly bracket to the door panel with two-step retaining tabs on each side.
Areas where breakage was common on originals and current reproduction parts sold by others have been strengthened.
The material has been changed to Nylon 6/6 with glass fill to increase durability and reduce warpage and other distortion due to heat.

Factory Revisions to the armrest brackets:

Armrest subassembly brackets went through 13 revisions, most of which were to improve the fit of the escutcheons. There was even a proposed (but rejected) revision that would have added a visible screw right through the escutcheon into the armrest bracket. Clearly, the factory struggled with the escutcheons quite a bit.

Obviously, the earliest version of the brackets caused the worst fit issues. On these brackets, the holes that receive the “pockets” of the escutcheon are in an incorrect position, making a nice fit impossible. If a nice fit on an early bracket is to be achieved, modification to the bracket will be required. In this case, the center hole is shifted up relative to the door release handle hole.

The corrective action here was to grind that hole as close to the correct shape as possible by removing material from the offending side to a total width of 44mm. We also painted it black, which is a nice thing to do anytime you have such access.

This is the limit where retention at the center pocket could become an issue. If retention here is lost due to the hole modification, it is recommended that the bracket provided with our new escutcheons be installed in order to properly retain the escutcheon.

There were two major TSA (Temporary Substitution Authority) documents issued that improved the escutcheon fit overall but could result in the rear portion of the escutcheon being poorly retained. All of these armrest brackets were hand-reworked so identifying them is easy. Look (and feel) for grinding marks on the edges highlighted here:

If you see this, test fit the escutcheon and scrutinize the fit and retention at the rear of the escutcheon. If it is unacceptable, install the provided escutcheon bracket.

For the most part, the two above examples are the only situations that might have a substantial impact on the fit of our new escutcheon, which was designed to work well with all other armrest bracket designs. If you do not have one of these armrest revisions and still have an unacceptable fit, read on for common reasons why and recommendations on how to fix them.

Misalignment/Damage to the armrest brackets:

It is common to see a significant misalignment between the armrest subassembly bracket, which is attached to the door, and the door AC vent bracket, which is attached to the lower door panel. When this occurs, the escutcheon and the door AC vent will meet at differing heights and angles. This misalignment can occur due to several reasons:

1. The armrest subassembly bracket is bent downward. This can occur when one leans too hard on the lower door panel or pulls too hard in the wrong spot while closing the door. In severe cases, this can prevent the escutcheon from being able to reach the bracket properly for positive retention. You can identify this type of misalignment when there is a vertical gap present between the escutcheon and the mirror switch or blanking cap. To repair the issue, the lower door panel must come off. It may be apparent what part of the armrest bracket is bent out of shape, in which case you can remove it and reshape it. If not, it is possible to shim the two lower mounting points up with M6 washers to improve the angle of the bracket with the door. Do not shim to excess - or adjustment of the door lock rods can be negatively affected. Approximately 3 flat washers (or approximately .200 inch/5 mm) is the most you can use. We recommend the SP10256SS stainless steel washer as an ideal shim.

2. The door AC vent bracket is loose or bent. This is very common as the bracket is only riveted to the lower door panel and these rivets loosen with repeated removal and installation or excessive force on the door panel. This bracket can sometimes be reattached with low profile rivets run in from the inside. The length of the rivet is critical for it not to show through the vinyl material - we recommend using an SP10130. Also, great care must be taken not to accidentally perforate the material. If there is not enough door panel material remaining to use a rivet, it is possible to use 2-part epoxy to bond the bracket with the panel. This repair can be somewhat fragile as it is only as strong as the panel material but it can be done successfully. At this point, lower door panel replacement should be seriously considered.

In addition to the lower door panel brackets coming loose from the panel, it is also possible for the rivets that join the two halves of the AC vent bracket to be broken and missing, or for the bolts that retain the AC vent to be loose or missing. The two halves of the bracket are riveted together in two places: And the AC vent is captured inside the bracket and secured with two screws. If you find any of this hardware to be loose or missing, it must be corrected. Check the fit of the AC vent on the door panel. Is there a gap where the flange around the vent is supposed to rest against the door panel? Now is the time to correct that by loosening the mounting screws, adjusting, and re-tightening.

3. The tab on the forward end of the armrest bracket is bent. This happens easily when the lower door panel is removed. When this happens, the top edge of the hole which receives the mirror switch or blanking cap distorts. This holds the switch (or blanking cap, depending on the side of the car) up proud of the surface they should rest against, resulting in a misalignment between the escutcheon and AC vent. This tab can be bent back into shape but the distortion at the top edge can be more difficult to correct. It is recommended to bend the tab into the correct angle with a pair of pliers, then flatten the edge at the top of the mirror switch/blanking cap hole on an anvil with a hammer. The finished product should look as close as possible to the image shown here:

Written by Michael Willard, DeLorean Motor Company (Texas)

Revised HCC 12/13/2024 [format, product links, minor edits]

Removing A Factory CO Plug

Tue, 26 Nov 2024 21:39:07 GMT

All DeLoreans came from the factory with what was purported to be the proper fuel mixture setting, and the ability to adjust that setting was sealed up with a tamper-proof plug. This was a measure to prevent tampering with the screw underneath which was considered an emissions control component. Adjustments made here will affect the amount of carbon monoxide in the exhaust, hence the name CO adjustment screw. As many owners know, this setting may or may not be where the car is at its happiest depending on the atmospheric conditions where they live, the condition of the car, or any modifications that have been made.

Luckily, the tamper-proof plug can be carefully drilled out and removed, allowing access to the fuel mixture adjustment screw. Once the plug is removed, the screw can be adjusted with a 3mm allen-head key - one with a T-handle is preferred, as it allows for more minute adjustments. After an adjustment is made, the hole needs to be plugged with a 102392A CO Adjustment Plug (#26 in the image below) in order to cap off what would otherwise be a vacuum leak due to the tamper-proof plug no longer being present.

To remove the factory plug, carefully drill a ⅛” hole as centered and straight as possible into the plug - you can do this without needing to remove anything from the car. You will NOT be able to drill completely through the hole and should not try. While the top of the plug is aluminum, there is a steel cap on the bottom so you should stop drilling as soon as you feel the resistance go up.

With a small hole drilled, find an appropriate sheet metal screw that will bite firmly into the aluminum. Firmly thread the screw in as far as possible, keeping in mind that you will hit the steel plug and the aluminum will strip out if you attempt to thread it in further from this point.

Now using a pair of long-handled wire cutters, grab the screw at the base and pivot the pliers against the metering plate housing to ratchet the screw and plug combo out of the hole. This will take a little effort at first but should then just pop right out.

You now have access to the “CO adjustment screw”. Keep in mind the engine response and emissions output are very sensitive to changes made at this point so any adjustment should be carried out with care and in small increments. Reach out to us at techhelp@classicdmc.com with any questions regarding CO adjustment.

By Sarah Heasty and Michael Willard, DeLorean Motor Company (Texas)

Crimps vs Clamps, a Frequency Valve story

Fri, 26 Jul 2024 20:32:43 GMT

A recent discussion about the DeLorean frequency valve and the two common methods of replacing the original, 40+ year old, brittle nylon fuel lines prompted us elaborate on our response and explain our rationale for using pressed on nylon fuel line vs a rubber hose and clamp.

On the fuel lines at the fuel pump, the original nylon lines are often brittle. We use fuel injection-rated rubber hose with fuel injection-specific (not worm) clamps as replacements. The environment in this area is not excessively warm or prone to the persistent vibration seen at the engine, and, while they may not last as long as OE nylon lines, they are easily installed and inspected.

While braided stainless lines are often recommended in the engine compartment, the frequency valve has its own set of issues. In 2023, we switched our rebuild process from all stainless lines, to a nylon low pressure line, and a stainless high pressure line. The reason for this change is due to the high number of frequency valve failures we were seeing as a result of the normal crimping action involved in attaching the stainless braided line onto the low pressure side of the frequency valve. When this failure occurs, the frequency valve no longer sprays and cannot be repaired - even if the added stainless line was subsequently removed. Frequency valves are becoming increasingly rare and their value is increasing correspondingly. We did not want to continue to place these precious and vital parts at risk of complete failure by continuing to crimp on a stainless steel braided line. We have arrived at what we feel is the only solution - rebuilding with a combination of new original-specification material for the low pressure side, and continuing to use upgraded braided stainless line for the high pressure side.

When replacing the low pressure line for internal or mail-order use, we use a modern, gasoline-rated, new nylon line pressed onto the frequency valve with a tool specific to this task. The nylon line is also protected by a thick rubber sheathing, similar to the original. As it’s an area with significant heat exposure, and as the car originally came with a sheathed nylon hose - most of which have lasted for 40 years or more, we feel this solution will achieve similar longevity.

Others perform/advocate a method of attaching a short length of rubber hose directly to the frequency valve with a hose clamp. This hose is then connected to a stainless braided line that runs to the fuel distributor. We strongly discourage the use of a combination braided stainless/short rubber hose and hose clamp on the frequency valve.

The barbed end of the frequency valve was never intended for use with a rubber hose and hose clamp. The barb is too short to properly accommodate the width of a typical hose clamp and too aggressive for a soft rubber hose. Both of these factors mean that it is not reliable and therefore not safe. One would never see this in an OE application. On the contrary, nylon fuel lines are used throughout the automotive industry to this day as a proven and reliable solution.

The combination of rubber and stainless braided hose is only as strong as its weakest link. That is problematic, as the rubber hose can come in direct contact with the hot rocker cover and experience abrading due to normal engine vibration. Worsening the issue is the fact that the rubber hose is obscured by the air filter housing when installed, which leads to a false sense of security with only a braided SS hose visible.

By Michael Willard, DeLorean Motor Company (Texas) with input from Sarah Heasty and Stephen Wynne

What was Kapac, also known as "The DeLorean Parts Depot"?

Mon, 19 Jun 2023 02:31:36 GMT

As told by Marvin & Sue Katz, owners of Kapac and published in Barrie Wills excellent book, John Z, the DeLorean and me...tales from an insider.

--------------------

In late 1982, after DeLorean Motor Company had filed for bankruptcy, and Consolidated International had purchased all the remaining cars and parts in the Dunmurry factory, they were faced with the daunting task of moving it all from Northern Ireland to their headquarters in Columbus, Ohio.

At the time, my wife and I were owners of a company called Kapac, which was specialized in real estate, primarily in the development of commercial properties. Over the years in Columbus, we had become acquainted with Sol Shenk (owner of Consolidated) and we were contracted to move the parts not only from Northern Ireland, but also from the warranty parts center in Irvine, California.

At the time, Consolidated had purchased (for $850,000) an option for a 90-year lease on the factory and purchase the equipment of DeLorean Motor Cars Limited in Dunmurry. However, Consolidated International had never been in the long term business – always buying and selling quickly as products became available to them. In reality, Sol Shenk never had any intention of exercising this option. This 45-day window of time was what they really needed to work out deals to their advantage with the receivers and the DeLorean US bankruptcy trustee.

In any case, shortly after we agreed to pack, ship and set up a parts warehouse for Consolidated in Columbus, I was in a meeting with Mr. Shenk and Jeff Abrams, the Consolidated executive overseeing the DeLorean project. Sometime during the course of this meeting, I was asked if I knew anyone who might be interested in buying all the parts. After agreeing on a price, Kapac had a new division - The DeLorean Parts Depot at Kapac - and we were suddenly the world's largest supplier of DeLorean parts.

In Irvine, we met Leif Montin, the national parts manager for DeLorean Motor Company (though then employed by Consolidated International) and he oversaw the packing of 182 40-foot shipping containers from Dunmurry and 68 tractor trailers from Irvine. Everything from nuts, bolts, and washers to complete frames, hundreds of engines and transmissions and everything in between was loaded. Deciding what to take and what to leave behind were some of the hardest decisions - it's hard to predict what you will need years into the future! We also were able to take many of the storage racks and the parts carousels, as well.

Leif discreetly suggested to me that we attempt to take as many of the engineering records and drawings that we could find, but were stymied in our attempts to do so. The receivers were adamant that these files were not part of the agreement, and the drawings kept at the factory were in the offices, and not near the parts which we were packing.

We did locate, however, another set of the drawings and a good portion of engineering records. In the Quality Control/Receiving offices - part of the main assembly building where the parts were received and stored prior to their use on the assembly line - another set of the drawings were kept so that the received parts could be checked against them for accuracy. Late one evening, after the receivers had left for the day, these drawings and files were quickly loaded into one of the containers and sent to the docks for the journey to the USA. It was at this same time that we inspected and chose what appeared to be the “best“ set of the molds for the fiberglass underbody and the rest of the tooling that went along with them.

Still, for all the items that were packed, there were many, many things that were left behind. We only took perhaps a half-dozen of the more than a hundred underbodies made available to us. Knowing we had a set of molds, these were not as important and the likelihood of someone needing a complete underbody for a crash repair was very remote. These leftover underbodies were chopped up and sent to the landfill. My biggest regret is that I did not try to take the many beautiful, framed photos off of the walls. Photos of the factory, prototype, and production car were all left behind - both in Dunmurry and in Irvine - and I would imagine that many are now in the homes of former DeLorean employees!

From the warranty parts center in Irvine were perhaps the most interesting DeLorean parts - the spare set of gold plated panels kept on hand in case of damage to either of the American Express gold-plated cars. These spare parts were later given to Consolidated, which used them to complete an early, partially assembled car shipped over from Dunmurry. This car was given the VIN ending in 20105 and eventually raffled off by Consolidated Stores.

It took several weeks for the parts to arrive in Ohio, and then Leif again was put to work arranging the parts across more than 300,000 square feet of warehouse near downtown Columbus. Also during this time, we contacted every one of the original suppliers to DeLorean, inquiring about the availability of any DeLorean-specific parts and made every effort to buy these, as well. In most cases, the suppliers were all too happy to sell to us. One notable purchase was a container load of later style windshields from Sekurit in Germany at a cost of $30,000. As time passed, we often dealt with many of these suppliers again for such parts as weatherstripping and other parts that had a particularly high turnover. Communicating with the French, English, German and Norwegian suppliers was always interesting!

It wasn't long before we realized that we were in very short supply of left front fenders. Many of the crates that were marked “left fender“ actually contained right fenders. My belief is that the body panels, which were made by Lapple in the Republic of Ireland, were not made in “sets“, but rather they would stamp a number of each panel in a run, and then ship them all to Dunmurry. As best I have been able to determine, they were preparing to produce more left fenders when the company went into receivership in early 1982 and all shipments of body panels to the factory stopped for lack of payment.

Knowing that these parts would be critical to DeLorean owners (and my business!) I made several inquiries to the receivers and directly to Lapple about buying more fenders or buying the tooling used to create them. Many times from many different parties I was told they were not available. I eventually sent a private investigator to Ireland for six weeks to locate the dies. By searching at scrap dealers in Ireland, he learned that the dies had been sold as scrap and many had been melted down, while still others had been sold to a fish farm for use as weights for nets. At my direction, the investigator hired divers to locate and photograph the dies. The dies still rest there to this day, at the time due to the costs involved in raising them, and now because it would be more cost-effective to have a new Kirksite die created.

In 1985, after John DeLorean's acquittal, he contacted us about either buying the parts or becoming partners in his plan to use the remaining stocks of parts as the basis of a newer, re-styled DeLorean car to be known as the Firestar 500. For almost a year, John had an office in our warehouse, and the use of an apartment that we had built there as part of an earlier project to convert older warehouses like this one to upscale apartments. Sue and I both have fond memories of John, and the time we spent with him. Intelligent, and at times philosophical, it's been said before by others that he had a photographic memory, and I would certainly agree with that. In the end, however, nothing came of the Firestar project other than some sketches.

Though the DeLorean part of our business was certainly more fun, and the DeLorean name opened doors to us that might not have been available to us otherwise, the sale of the parts to owners, dealers and shops around the world was never much of a money-maker. We kept the parts on our books at retail price, rather than cost, which made us appear to be a significantly larger company than we actually were, and that allowed us to grow our commercial real estate business quicker than we might have otherwise been able to do.

In the mid-90s, we decided it was time to move on, and hopefully sell the parts to someone in the DeLorean community who would ensure that they would always be available to owners. Further, we knew that as stocks of the original parts were depleted, it would require someone with dedication to the DeLorean car to ensure future parts availability, as well.

In late 1996, we were approached by Stephen Wynne, who took time out to come and visit the facility in Ohio, get his hands dirty and see for himself what remained after selling from these stocks for then more than 13 years. In the spring of 1997, we completed the transaction to sell the parts to Stephen, and our “bit part“ in the DeLorean story ended.

We made many friendships and met scores of interesting people and particularly enjoyed the open house events that we used to have at the old warehouse. Now, more than 30 years later, Sue and I look back at our time in the DeLorean saga as one of the more interesting experiences in our lives.

Added June 19, 2023